Mit einem 1975er Toyota irgendwas rasen wir, soweit die miserablen Strassenzustaende es zulassen, von der Grenze Richtung Kathmandu. Aeusserst erstaunlich, dass wir mit diesem Auto mit nur einem platten Reifen (der prompt gewechselt und repariert wird) und einem tauben Allerwertesten davon kommen. In der Rekordzeit von 6 Stunden schaffen wir die 100 Kilometer offroad und kommen um mindestens 3 Nahtoderfahrungen reicher in Kathmandu an. Da in Nepal die Angabe des Stadtbezirks als Adresse ausreicht, gestaltete sich die Suche nach unserem Hotel nicht gerade als Balsam fuer unser angeschlagenes Nervenkostuem. Nach einigen Missverstaendnissen ("Is the hotel close by?" "No, don't think close, is open!") plumpsen wir dann doch noch todmuede ins Bett.Kathmandu hat 1 Million Einwohner, eine 2000 Jahre alte Geschichte und keine einzige Ampel. Wie der Verkehr hier ueberhaupt fliessen kann, bleibt uns ein Raetsel. Die Luftqualitaet treibt einem wortwoertlich die Traenen in die Augen und Abfallmanagement ist keine Prioritaet der Regierung. All dies scheint jedoch die heiligen Kuehe in den Strassen der Altstadt nicht zu kuemmern, die mit stoischer Ruhe vor sich hin schlendern. Hindus und Buddhisten teilen sich Plaetze und manchmal auch Tempel und die ganze Stadt ist ein bunter Mix aus mittelalterlichem Markttreiben, Touristghetto und Heiligenschreinen. Spiritualitaet wird grossgeschrieben. Wir treffen verrueckte Sadhus (heilige Maenner), die sich auf eine spirituelle Suche begeben haben (und sich diese mit Kleingeld fuer Fotos mit Touristen finanzieren). Wir finden ein mit Muenzen beschlagenes Stueck Holz, das den Gott des Zahnschmerzes symbolisiert und dem geopfert werden muss, wird man von entsprechenden Leiden geplagt. Wir besuchen Pashupatinath, den heiligsten Hindutempel in Nepal, in dem taeglich Kremationszeremonien stattfinden, oeffentlich versteht sich, unter den Blicken neugieriger Touristen. Wir erhaschen sogar einen Blick auf ein kleines Maedchen, das als die Inkarnation der Goettin Kumari verehrt wird, wenigstens solange, bis sie ihre ersten Tage kriegt. Dann wird durch ein aufwaendiges Auswahlverfahren eine neue Wuerdige bestimmt.
With a 1975 Toyota something we raced from the border towards Kathmandu, as far as this was possible with the miserable road conditions. Very surprisingly, we made the journey with only one flat tire (which was replaced and repaired immediately) and a very sore bottom. At the record speed of 6 hours we made the 100 km offroad and after at least three near death experiences we arrived in Kathmandu. Because it is sufficient to display your district as an address, the search for our hotel wasn’t exactly a soothing experience for our nerves. After some missunderstanding (“Is the hotel close by?” “No, not think close, is open!”) we fell into our beds dead tired. Kathmandu has 1 million inhabitants, it’s history is 2000 years old and there’s not a single traffic light in the whole city. How the traffic continues to flow we still couldn’t figure out. The quality of the air literally makes your eyes watering and waste management is not on the priorities list of the government. All this doesn’t seem to bother the holy cows lingering peacefully in the middle of the roads in the oldtown. Hindus and Buddhists share squares and often temples and the whole city is a colourful mix of medieval marketscenes, tourist ghetto and holy shrines. Spirituality is all important. We meet crazy sadhus (holy men) that are on a spiritual search (financed with posing for photos with tourists). We find a lump of wood covered with coins representing the god of toothache whom you must present with an offering if your teeth are bothering you. We visit Pashupatinath, the holiest of all Hindutemples in Nepal, where public cremation ceremonies are held daily under the curious eye of tourists. We even catch glimpses of a little girl worshipped as the incarnation of the goddess Kumari, at least until her first period. Then she will be replaced by a worthy successor.
With a 1975 Toyota something we raced from the border towards Kathmandu, as far as this was possible with the miserable road conditions. Very surprisingly, we made the journey with only one flat tire (which was replaced and repaired immediately) and a very sore bottom. At the record speed of 6 hours we made the 100 km offroad and after at least three near death experiences we arrived in Kathmandu. Because it is sufficient to display your district as an address, the search for our hotel wasn’t exactly a soothing experience for our nerves. After some missunderstanding (“Is the hotel close by?” “No, not think close, is open!”) we fell into our beds dead tired. Kathmandu has 1 million inhabitants, it’s history is 2000 years old and there’s not a single traffic light in the whole city. How the traffic continues to flow we still couldn’t figure out. The quality of the air literally makes your eyes watering and waste management is not on the priorities list of the government. All this doesn’t seem to bother the holy cows lingering peacefully in the middle of the roads in the oldtown. Hindus and Buddhists share squares and often temples and the whole city is a colourful mix of medieval marketscenes, tourist ghetto and holy shrines. Spirituality is all important. We meet crazy sadhus (holy men) that are on a spiritual search (financed with posing for photos with tourists). We find a lump of wood covered with coins representing the god of toothache whom you must present with an offering if your teeth are bothering you. We visit Pashupatinath, the holiest of all Hindutemples in Nepal, where public cremation ceremonies are held daily under the curious eye of tourists. We even catch glimpses of a little girl worshipped as the incarnation of the goddess Kumari, at least until her first period. Then she will be replaced by a worthy successor.
Kumari, die lebende Goettin Kumari the living godess
Oeffrentliche Kremation - Public cremation
No littering please!
