Der stuermische Empfang, den uns die leicht verzweifelt anmutenden Tuktuk-Fahrer in diesem kleinen Ort drei Busstunden suedlich von Siem Reap bereiten, laesst uns schnell ins naechstbeste nicht-empfohlene Guesthouse fluechten. Zudem zeigt sich die Regenzeit heute ebenfalls von ihrer stuermischen Seite, so dass wir es nicht eilig haben, das neu eroberte Zimmer zu verlassen. Am naechsten Tag gibt's dann aber das ganze Programm mit dem Besten, was Battambang touristisch zu bieten hat (der Ort an sich ist nicht gerade eine Kulturhauptstadt, auch nicht zur Hauptsaison). Zuerst geniessen wir einen Morgenkaffee mit Thom, unserem Fahrer fuer heute, in einem kleinen Strassenkaffee, wo uns all seine Freunde, ebenfalls Fahrer, das Leid der Kundenlosigkeit jetzt in der absoluten Low-Season klagen. Dann geht's auf zur - zumindest unter Backpackern - beruehmtesten Attraktion hier: dem Bambootrain. Auf uralten Gleisen (einspurig) einer laengst vergessenen Bahnlinie brausen wir auf einer Bambusholzkonstruktion auf zwei Stahlrollen, die von einem einfachen Dieselmotor angetrieben wird, zu einem kleinen Dorf, bestehend aus ein paar Huetten und einer Ziegelbrennerei. Der Bambuszug oder "norry" wird von den Einheimischen auch schon mal zur Befoerderung von Reissaecken benutzt und ist das ideale Transportmittel, da einfach, schnell und guenstig. Wenn zwei Zuege kreuzen muessen, wird derjenige, der die geringere Last befoerdert, kurz vom Gleis gehoben und weiter vorn wieder draufgesetzt und weiter geht's. Wir besuchen ausserdem Kambodscha's erstes und einziges Weingut - naja, einen Versuch war's wert. Unser letzter Halt gilt einem indisch angehauchtem Tempel auf einem Huegel, neben dem sich eine Hoehle befindet. Dort sind Knochen von Opfern aufgebahrt, die waehrend des Khmer Rouge Regimes zum Huegel gefuehrt und dort umgebracht wurden. Das traurige Erbe dieser blutigen Zeit ist im ganzen Land noch sehr praesent.
The rapturous welcome the slightly desperate tuktuk drivers gave us in this town three bushours south of Siem Reap left us fleeing to the next best non-recommended guesthouse we found. Other then that the rainy season showed us its stormy side too, so we could wait to leave our newly concered room. The next day we went on a tour to see the best of Battambang (the town itself is not really draw for culture vultures) . First we enjoyed our morning coffee in a small local cafe with Thom, our driver for the day where all his friends (mostly drivers themselves) were moaning over the lack of customers now in the absolute low-season. Next we went to the most well known attraction (at least among backpackers): the bamboo train. On ancient railtracks (only oneway) we slided on a bamboo construction on two rolls which is powered by a simple diesel engine. We stopped at a small village with a few huts and a brickfactory. The "norry" is also used by the locals to transport bags of rice and is the ideal means of transport for it is easy, fast and cheap. If two trains need to cross, the one with the smaller load is lifted off the track and put back a bit further down the line. Apart from riding this thing, we visit Cambodia's first and last winery - well, we gave it a try. Our last stop was at a temple with an Indian touch perched on a hilltop. Nearby lies a cave where the Khmer Rouge used to bring people and kill them. Their bones and skulls are displayed at a little shrine. The sad legacy of this bloody aera is still vividly present in the whole country.
The rapturous welcome the slightly desperate tuktuk drivers gave us in this town three bushours south of Siem Reap left us fleeing to the next best non-recommended guesthouse we found. Other then that the rainy season showed us its stormy side too, so we could wait to leave our newly concered room. The next day we went on a tour to see the best of Battambang (the town itself is not really draw for culture vultures) . First we enjoyed our morning coffee in a small local cafe with Thom, our driver for the day where all his friends (mostly drivers themselves) were moaning over the lack of customers now in the absolute low-season. Next we went to the most well known attraction (at least among backpackers): the bamboo train. On ancient railtracks (only oneway) we slided on a bamboo construction on two rolls which is powered by a simple diesel engine. We stopped at a small village with a few huts and a brickfactory. The "norry" is also used by the locals to transport bags of rice and is the ideal means of transport for it is easy, fast and cheap. If two trains need to cross, the one with the smaller load is lifted off the track and put back a bit further down the line. Apart from riding this thing, we visit Cambodia's first and last winery - well, we gave it a try. Our last stop was at a temple with an Indian touch perched on a hilltop. Nearby lies a cave where the Khmer Rouge used to bring people and kill them. Their bones and skulls are displayed at a little shrine. The sad legacy of this bloody aera is still vividly present in the whole country.
